I sleep deep and long after yesterday’s adventure and wake up to a grey rainy morning. Unlike the usual tropical hard but short downpours followed by immediate sunshine, today is a sustained rain shower out of a deep, dark cloud cover. Almost feels like Europe, just warmer.

At some point as I roll over to the other side of my bunk I notice the mattress is all wet there and then I feel the drops falling from the main hatch. Did I leave it open? No, it is properly closed but seems to be leaking. That is new. Not sure why – during yesterday’s hard sail we took on some big seas that dumped onto the foredeck and washed to leeward across that hatch. Maybe those compromised the seal? I will have to monitor and if it gets worse reseat the whole hatch. Let’s see.

After breakfast it clears up and the sun shows again. I put the dinghy in the water and head into town. I need to check into St.Lucia, which is a more elaborate procedure than the other counties. In addition to the usual customs and immigration (all different offices involving walks across town between them), here I also need to see the port authority and a health ministry office. Lots of forms and stamps and I can’t help but question what value any of this actually adds. Oh well, at least they are all very friendly and fast.

Then I get cash and find my life safer Peter to pay him for the towing service. He has a bunch of recommendations for snorkeling and scuba diving spots. I definitely want to return here with Anika and visit some of those.

My final stop is the fuel dock. The dinghy needs filling up. And after my “seasick engine” experience, I also want to add some diesel to JACE’s tank. It’s too shallow at the fuel dock for her so I bring two 25l diesel jugs and fill them up and ferry them back and carefully add to JACE’s giant tank – 50 liters barely making a dent on the fuel gauge.

Then I get underway to my next stop, Marigot Bay. The wind in lee of the island is fluky and goes from nothing to 25kn and back again with no rhyme or reason. I try sailing but give up quickly and just motor the short distance.

Marigot Bay is a wonderful little sanctuary, a natural harbor and “hurricane hole” (sailors escape here and tie their boats to the mangroves to secure them for approaching storms). And it is strikingly beautiful. A sand spit with palm trees, a mangrove-ringed inner lagoon, a narrow and lush green channel to the open sea. And, of course, plenty of restaurants, bars, dive shops and the like.

My attempts to get the anchor into the rocky seabed fail despite a couple of attempts and I end up grabbing a mooring instead. For Happy Hour I have a couple Cuba Libres at one of the bars and chat with a few folks. One lady is fascinated by the silver seasickness patch behind my ear and I have to tell her all about it.

The next morning I get up early and shave and put on a proper polo. I have a video conference with a recruiter and want to look somewhat presentable. It is time I slowly start the job hunt for what comes next.

Afterwards I go on a hike that my cruising guide recommended. It is steep but short, up through nearly impenetrable jungle to a lookout point. The view of Marigot Bay and the open sea is spectacular and it was well worth the effort and sweat. Besides, I don’t get enough exercise and enjoy stressing my legs. Boy, I do miss my bike!

Then it is time to say goodbye and head further north. Rodney Bay is a large bay at the very northern tip of St.Lucia that was already heavily frequented and fought over by the English and French in the 18th century. Today, the square-rigged wooden frigates and ships of the line have been replaced by a sizable armada of sailboats and catamarans and a few super yachts. As I drop anchor I can’t help but wonder what it must have been like when Nelson and Collingwood and all their captains and crews were riding at anchor here some 250 years ago. I clearly read too many books about those times.

Tomorrow I will go and explore Rodney Bay town. This is where we arrived after the 26 day Atlantic crossing I did in 2017 and I can’t wait to see the place again and refresh my memories.