Finally! Seeing dolphins for me is the ultimate marine life experience. When they come by the boat, swim with you, and play in the bow wave. We saw many in our travels years ago across the Mediterranean Sea. But here in the Caribbean they seem to be much more rare. I am not sure why – should do some research on that. I saw a pod one day when in April we sailed JACE down to Grenada. But not since.
Today is the day! Anika spots them, first a few in the distance. And then an hour later as we are very close to Dominica she yells. At first I am startled as I think something is wrong. But then I see them, a very large pod and very close to the boat. Anika takes off to the bow with the camera and captures a nice video of them.
They play around our bow for a bit and there is even a mother with a young calf. Wonderful!
Dominica is steep and mountainous. I know I say this about all the islands but here it is extreme. The island is known as the most unchanged from what European settlers once found, mostly because the interior is so wild and impenetrable. Highest elevation of well over 1400m (over 4700ft), multiple volcanoes and hot springs, many waterfalls and everything covered by thick rainforest. There are only some 70 thousand people in this country, since the late 70s independent from England, and virtually all of them live along the coast.
Anika and I decide to spend a full day exploring the island. With the help of Marcus, the mooring man and self-declared “head of security” in the anchorage of Rosseau, the capital of Dominica, we find and negotiate a driver for the day. We picked a good time since there are no cruise ships currently and thus far less people at the main inland attractions.
We set off by 9 and after clearing customs we get dropped off high in the jungle for a “25min” one-way hike to Middleham Falls, said to be Dominica’s most beautiful. It ends up taking us over 1.5hrs (getting lost doesn’t help) but it is a wonderful hike, up and down through the thick forest.
We expected heat and sun but it is perpetually cloudy and much cooler here; the humid trade winds cloud up as they have to get over those mountains and lose a lot of rain in the process. Although we get fairly wet, we love it and much prefer that over sweating.
The falls are truly amazing as they shoot out of the thick green high above, bounce off the sheer walls multiple times, and crash into an emerald green pool. We brought our swim stuff to brave that pool but it is too cold and we take a pass.
Next up is the Titou Gorge, a 60m long swim-in canyon, made even more famous by featuring in the second Pirates of the Caribbean movie. Again we hesitate about taking a bath despite the cool air but eventually push ourselves and truly enjoy the experience: floating in the chilly water while wedged in between round-washed canyon walls and looking up at the light filtering down through the green jungle above. Very special, particularly since we have the entire place to ourselves.
We also pay the twin Trafalgar Falls a visit and stop by a hot spring to soak in the smell of sulfur and feel the hot humid air.
By now we are famished and luckily a restaurant is close at hand, where we devour the excellent Creole food. It is nearly 3pm and we are ready to get back home, take a shower, and rest. It was a wonderful day and we really liked the wild interior of Dominica.
